Navigating
History:
Piloting a Craftsman Houseboat Cruiser
By
Mick Woodbury
The boat has the grandness
of a home, with rich mahogany inlays, Douglas fir floors, and exposed
beams in the ceiling. In so many ways, it is like a 2,200 square-foot
Craftsman house, except that you can take it for a cruise to Alaska.
Like a Craftsman house
with a foundation that seems to have arisen from the earth, the
92-foot Lotus looks so fitting it could have surfaced from the waters
of Puget Sound. Surrounded by towering pines, textured hills and
a calm blue bay, the wooden yacht - whose unique design was inspired
by the double-deck steamships that frequented the sound from the
1850s to the 1930s - is a captivating presence. Inside, its wainscoting,
vertical-grain fir and brass lotus-blossom lamps reveal a rich patina
that comes only with age and loving care. It seems only natural
that this boat, recently featured in the Port Townsend Historic
Home Tour, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Outside, the
wind is up, the whitecaps are knocking and it's so quiet, it's almost
like being anchored in the pure, secluded backwaters of coastal
Alaska. There's one restaurant on the waterfront that just serves
dinner and is known to be pretty wonderful. A little marina is farther
down the bay. The two dozen boats anchored off the port side are
bobbing on the chop. Snug in the pilothouse on the second floor
of the Lotus, owner Christian Gruye and interior designer Karen
Hovde are recalling stories about this remarkable houseboat that
has come into Christian's life for the third time since she was
a young girl.
"In
1959, I wasn't even a teenager yet when my Mom, Kathryn, found a
little three-line newspaper ad that led us to a dock where the Gasworks
Park is now located," says Christian, who also runs the Lotus
Foundation for the preservation of her
seaworthy
piece of history. "The Lotus was leaning against the pilings.
For my dad,
Curtiss, or 'Papa,' it was an easy decision that resulted in a quick
sale. From then on, my sister, Lezley, and brother, David, and I
spent our summers aboard and our days were filled with clamming,
fishing and playing on the docks. We even learned to work as maids
when we ran her as a "boatel" during the 1962 Seattle
World's Fair. We could sleep 14 people in beds and 4 on beautiful
deck seats behind the pilothouse out of the wind."
"Instead
of a family cabin, the Gruyes had a boat on Puget Sound, the most
state-of-the art yacht in its day," says Hovde, Christian's
long-time friend. " It was built in 1909 for Maurice McMicken,
a prominent Seattle attorney, politician and newspaper publisher
who wanted to travel the Inland Passage with his family and friends.
It is one of a kind, built the best it could be with the finest
materials available. The sea-green Grueby relief tiles surrounding
the fireplace depict Viking ships. There's a chandelier in the main
saloon, which has built-ins just like a Craftsman home. The heads
are as big as any bathroom in a Craftsman home, and there are two
claw-foot tubs. You could have a live band and dance floor on the
boat deck behind the 18-by-9-foot pilothouse. In fact, they've done
it! There are even lights and an intercom installed in the days
when electricity had yet to reach into many conventional homes.
"This boat has the grandness of a home with rich mahogany inlays,
Douglas fir floors, and exposed beams in the ceiling. So many things
are very similar to a 2,200 square-foot Craftsman house, except
that you can sail it on the open ocean."
In the 1970s,
with their children grown, Curtioss and Kathryn were ready to travel
more, and Curtiss sold the Lotus to a Puget Sound historian who,
on impulse, bought both the boat and the marina all in one day.
"We were all disappointed Papa sold the Lotus, but we knew
it was the right thing for him to do," Christian says. "The
very next day, though, he called the buyer and said, 'I feel awful
and I'm having terrible remorse. But all I really want is to have
the right of first refusal if you ever decide to be done with her.'
Sure enough, a few years later Papa got the call we had hoped for.
He went to the bank that day, withdrew the boat money that he'd
never spent, and bought the boat back. We were all so thrilled,
and though we were scattered geographically, we all came back right
away and started working on her again, even installing a new engine."
With
repairs and a new engine, the Lotus was again seaworthy. It wasn't
long before Curtiss was testing the waters with members of his family,
first on outings with his son, then on a "grand adventure"
with his two brothers to Alaska's Glacier Bay. Then he began what
would become a long association with wooden-boat and classic-yacht
enthusiasts. "Our first wooden boat festival was here in Port
Townsend," Christian says. "From then on, we did every
festival in Puget Sound and many in Canada. The Lotus was part of
the Washington State Flotilla of Ships to the Vancouver, B.C. Expo
in 1986. Mayors even presented her with keys to their cities. The
opening-day parades were celebrations we tried never to miss."
In 1998, after two decades of touring, exploring and tirelessly
crewing the yacht with the help of inspired friends, Curtiss sold
the Lotus for the second and final time, to a couple who operated
it for a short while as a bed-and-breakfast.
They,
as well as the father and son they soon sold it to, both discovered
how costly it is to maintain an antique 92-foot boat. (Bottom paint
alone is at least $100 per gallon.) When the father and son learned
the boat's history with Christian's family in 2003, they called
her and offered it to her as a gift. This time around, the woman
who grew up working and playing on the boat she called her second
home would have tour guides in her two grown children, Piper and
Cody, and the best mooring rigging - not to mention support and
encouragement - from her husband, the Master Rigger and author Brion
Toss.
"Now, she's been in our family three times, and each time is
with great joy," Christian says. Also, this time she has Karen
Hovde's Arts and Crafts interior-design expertise. "Every time
there was a significant change in Christian's career path, she would
say, 'Now I can buy the boat back,'" Karen says. "To have
the boat gifted back to the family makes it a remarkable story."
"When she became ours again, we put her in the public domain
right away," Christian says. "We had to haul her out of
the water for the insurance survey, but even sitting in the boat
yard, she drew attention. People would sheepishly walk up and ask
for tours. So we finally made a sign - "Tours Daily" -
and opened her up to visitors every day at 5 p.m. when we finished
working on her. I'd say that by now, conservatively, a half-million
people have walked through this boat. The minute they walk in the
door, the first thing that comes out of their mouths is 'WOW.' They
have no idea they're going to walk from a common dock to a saloon
that just knocks you over, one that's so beautiful, and so gloriously
simple.
"It's
the simplicity of this Craftsman-Edwardian era in the art and décor,
when design went from the overdone Victorian, over-ferned sort of
setting, to clean lines, strong profiles and beautiful use of materials.
In the Northwest in particular, because we're surrounded by wood,
stone and water, it really resonates, and people get swept into
it. If they have time, they gravitate to the saloon and there's
always a teapot on for a cup of tea. Or they can sit up on the deck,
or in the pilot house. It just makes you want to slow down and step
back. I think because wood is a beautiful medium for muting sound,
it makes everything mellow. The boat is all wood, so it gives a
very solid, quiet feeling the minute you walk inside. And because
she's so big and heavy, she sits solidly in the water. It's a serene
feeling."
Christian is reminded of the energy and involvement of "our
wonderful Friends of Lotus volunteers. Once people take the tour,
they want to get involved. Volunteers have made a world of difference.
One couple came for a week at a time and lived in their van while
they worked on her. We had 1,600 volunteer hours just for the exterior.
The Lotus has always been well maintained, so this is not a restoration
or a renovation but a continuing preservation. And because people
care, pieces of the Lotus's past are coming back. The fold-up porcelain
sinks and deck chairs were returned by previous owners, and because
the Lotus crest is on so many items, people will call and say they
have a glass or a dish they want to return. It's been great for
Papa, at 86, to come almost every day and know she's being brought
back to her full glory to kick off her second hundred years."
Mick
Woodbury is a marketing consultant and lifelong sailor.
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