So it's time to replace the porch floor. I can tell because there are now places where I can see through it to the crawl space underneath. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] <br> <br>Many homes in my neighborhood seem to have replaced theirs with regular deck planking, but I don't really like that look. I'd prefer to put in something like what's there, which appears to be tongue-and-groove planking. Does anyone know what would have been typical for a 1920 bungalow (I'm assuming the decayed one is the original, but I don't know it for a fact), and where I might find its equivalent nowadays? <br> <br>Right now it's painted a brick red (which doesn't really harmonize with the red-and-clinker-brick house) that is peeling to reveal gray underneath, but I'd like to go with something else. Any suggestions (good floor paints, should it match an exterior paint scheme, could it be stained, etc.)? <br> <br>Thanks for your help. <br> <br> <br>

I saw a new product in one of the last magazines I read. It was for a composite tongue in groove flooring material that sounds perfect for your application, www.tendura.com . I don't know anything more than what their ad said, so I can't say from personal experience that this is a good product. But the specs sounded wonderful. I would bet that this type of flooring would have been original to your house. In the past, we have used pressure treated tongue and groove flooring, but of course there is the environmental impact of that. Either would look original after installed and painted. Personally, I would give a hard look at the new product, especially if you are going to keep your house for a while, even if it is quite a bit more costly. <br> <br>HTH, <br> <br>Deb

Thanks for the info--I wasn't aware of that option. I'll definitely check it out. <br>

I recommend you look into southern yellow pine (plentifully available in your area) t&g planks. You should prime and paint (oil-based) all sides of the planks (the tongues and grooves) before installing. This will last 50 years + with regular top maintenance (ie, scrape and paint every 5 years or so). You can topcoat with a urethane porch paint with aggregate non-slip mixed in. This will decrease slipping and decrease scratches/dings. <br> <br>I understand people often hesitate when they seen "pine" recommended for exterior application. I am sincere about the 50 year life-span. Southern Yellow Pine is not white pine that you see at the home centers. It is hard as a rock, heavy as lead, and relatively resistant to rot and infestation naturally, but much more so when painted and maintained. It is a relative of the the famous southern Florida pine (Dade county) that carpenters have built homes from in Key West (without preservative treatment) for over a century. <br> <br>Cheers, <br>Tim

Southern yellow pine would be an excellent choice. Whatever you do, if you are going to paint it you do not want to use pressure treated wood. And you want to paint all four sides and pay particular attention to the ends which is usually where problems start.

Very interesting. I looked into the composite material that was mentioned in an earlier post, and it looks pretty pricey. I'm also wondering whether it will have the same feel as a wooden floor. Do you happen to know how the SYP would compare in terms of cost? <br> <br>Would I get it special-order at a home store, or from a lumber mill, or what? I do know of a direct-seller mill/millwork place in KY (the town bills itself as the "lumber capital of KY"), where I used to live, but they seem to deal mostly in oak and poplar. If they do have the SYP, though, it would almost certainly be less than buying it from a retailer. That was my experience with wainscoting, etc., which came out to about 1/2 of what a lower grade would have cost at Lowe's--definitely worth a trip over the border in the pickup. <br> <br>Thanks for your help! <br>

It might help to peruse this site for local dealers (they have a merchant locator that I've found moderately helpful): <br> <br>http://www.southernpine.com/ <br> <br>I think a flooring specialist might be helpful. However, I've found they often overuse the term "heart pine"...so you might want to watch out for species specific info. <br> <br>Lowes/HD would not carry what you are looking for, in my experience. They might have some SYP stair treads (I've bought them at HD before in Maryland), but I've never seen SYP suitable for flooring. <br> <br>Let me say one thing about SYP...you know it when you see it/feel it. It is incredibly heavy compared to almost all other pines you see on the east coast. <br> <br>As for price, this should be cheaper than white oak, which would be your next best alternative, in my opinion. SYP in your area should be slightly more expensive than poplar for price. <br> <br>Cheers, <br>Tim

Just curious...we used the pressure-treated tongue in groove planking on on porches and painted them... no problems. Of course, we had to let them 'age' first. Why did you say that if you plan to paint them, not use use the pressure treated wood? Other than I know that there are better solutions out there now. <br> <br>

If you allow pressure treated to dry for 4 to 6 months then there would be no problems. I can't think of other reasons not to paint pressure treated, once dry. <br> <br>Cheers, <br>Tim

It's just that untreated wood takes paint better, and you don't have to age them. Also, pressure treated would is somewhat brittle and will crack over time. This is much less of a problem with untreated wood. When I was a house painter I painted a number of porches that were 50-75 yrs. old that were still in good shape. We used an oil based deck paint especially formulated for porches. Of course, it came in a limited selection of designer colors like battleship grey, but the stuff did wear like iron.