I'm about to start the task of removing the old double hung windows in our home and reglazing them. I also need to strip all the old paint off the windows and trim. What I'm wondering is do I need to seal the windowsills and tracks with some waterproofing chemical (like Thompsons water seal) and then prime and paint the outside? I want to have the inside just stained. I want to make sure the outside is super waterproofed as there are no storm windows, just screens on the outside.

Thanks.

Okay...

First, if you're reglazing, make sure that you prime the area where the window glass will meet the sash before replacing the glass.

Second, a good primer and 2 topcoats should be fine on the exterior. I don't think I'd put Thompsons or anything like it on the bare wood. That could prevent good primer/paint adhesion.

Last, good luck. It is a tough job but it is pretty nice to have 'like new' windows that aren't new!

Previous poster is correct- priming with good oil based primer on bare wood on anything that gets rained on is sufficient. The most vulnerable parts outside, since I have been watching my restored windows weather is the vertical seam on the window trim where it meets the window sill. I would repair any water damage there with bondo and not regular wood filler. Bondo repairs here are superior. I still have to touch up the paint here, though. Also, be sure to caulk any seams that exist. In general, the reason my wood windows still exist is the 10 layers of paint. You will be glad you saved the old ones instead of replacing.
Carol

I think that what Wyluli is referring to the "sash channel" for both the upper and lower sashes. General recommendations is that you shouldn't paint the sash channels. My understanding is that historically they were left bare and treated with a preservative to protect them from the elements. The exterior of the sashes were painted but the sash channels were unpainted

I'm restoring my windows and I'm stripping the old paint out of the sash channels and from the sashes themselves, treating with an exterior preservative, installing bronze weather stripping and repainting the sashes. Recently at the advice of some of the local old house gurus, I've started playing with penetrating epoxy which penetrates and protects the wood much more than anything else I've found.

Diane

I cannot fathom why anyone would paint a sash channel! It would cause friction when you slide up and down. Mine are all naked, since all the lazy PO's never took them apart to paint them, just sloshed it on with windows hanging and eventually painted shut. Even without spring bronze, I do not think water could get forced into the sash channel. The wood on my 80 year old sash channels, while dry, is very prone to splintering upon removing the sashes.

Thank you for the advice. The previous owner had slapped on about 20 layers of paint (including the sash cords, channels and painted the windows shut altogether of course). I don't think any of the windows open properly anymore (sash cords all broken etc...).
I bought some white oil based primer for the outside and some white paint to coat with (until we get around to redoing the outside of the house the way we want). I also picked up some Dapp glazing compound. Removing the paint is proving incredibly difficult as the windows were always painted and the bottom few layers of paint do not want to come off. I may try wet sanding...

Hi! I used Abatron LiquidWood to paint all of the exterior surfaces and then used a commercial grade oil-based primer and 100% acrylic latex paint (3 coats on horizontal surfaces). Be sure to use a 100% hepa filtration mask (3M has them) if you are scraping and sanding paint or glazing.

I have to suggest the Silent Paint Remover. It was about $400, which is pricey, but may be worth your sanity depending on the number of windows you are doing. I was able to do the exterior of one window in about 1 -1.5 hours after I got the hang of it. About the same for a pair of sashes for one window. Also, you MUST have a good sharp CARBIDE scraper. A stainless steel one will ruin all of your best efforts and leave you very frustrated.

I was torn on the subject of painting the sash channels, so I fgured it was better to paint (and protect wood) and remove it later if I found it to be unacceptable due to sticking. So far I have been happy with my decision.

I took sashes out and stripped them and frames to bare wood. I used oil based primer with one thin coat of acrylic latex top coat for color. I did all painting while the widnows were apart. I have had no problems in the 1 1/2 yrs of since I finished the job. Only thing is, I painted inside of windows and trim (there was just to much damage to wood that needed repair to stain)

I think the key was stripping sash and frames to bare wood and using thin coats of top quality paint. I did install spring bronze weather stripping in the windows I redid this past summer and didn't really find any difference in the operation of those windows, but they do seem to provide better weather sealing.

I also have triple track aluminum storms so the sealing of the windows themselves is not as critical.

Well, I guess some folks disagree, but I painted the sash channels on the windows I have worked on. But, my bungalow is/was almost all painted. I painted just primer - two coats on everything that might be exposed to the elements. My windows were in really bad shape when i bought the house. That oil based primer soaks in deep and provides excellent protection.

Absolutely, prime the outer jamb (the one the upper sash rides in) to protect it. Just make sure the paint is completely dry before re-installing the sash or it'll be stuck permanently.

On my windows the paint/no paint question is based on a very simple principle:

If a surface is exposed to the elements with the window closed (pretend there is no storm window present) then that surface should be painted as if it were an exterior surface.

If a surface is visible from the inside when the window is closed, that surface should receive the same finish as the interior trim.

All surfaces that are not visible from the inside or outside when the window is closed should be left unfinished.

For example, the lower half of the jamb for the upper (outermost) sash should be painted with exterior trim paint but the upper half should remain unfinished. The upper half of the jamb for the lower (innermost) sash should receive the interior trim finish, but the lower half should be left unfinished.

Parting stops are painted using a pattern that follows the same principle. It gets slightly complicated - but it's easy to figure out. Just follow the rule.

The rule, stated simply: if the rain hits it, paint it. If a plant mister hits it, give it the interior finish. All other surfaces, leave unfinished.

Any painted surface should cure at least a month before you allow anything to be pressed against it for any period of time.

Regarding a protectant for unpainted surfaces, I believe penetrating epoxy sealers are the best thing you can use.

No, this stuff is not the cheapest:

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

CPES is similar to Minwax wood hardener but based on some reading I've done I expect CPES to be far superior over the long term.

When I restore a window I use CPES to prepare every surface that will be painted or left unfinished.

Warning: CPES smells *outrageous* for the first few days of curing. Like bananas!